2010 Mazda CX-7 2.3L P2009

2010 Mazda CX-7 2.3L P2009

Mazda CX-7 On the 2010 Mazda CX-7 with the 2.3L Turbo engine, the P2009 is a fairly straight forward code pointing to a problem with the Variable Swirl Solenoid Valve. It’s located on the top, front of the engine. Carefully inspect the electrical connector and wire harness for any loose, broken or damaged wires. Inspect the fuse labeled “ENG BAR 1”. If the inspections check ok, there is some testing that will need to be done to confirm, but more commonly, the solenoid will need to be replaced. Does your…

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2008 Mazda CX9 B1330 Front Door Switch

2008 Mazda CX9 B1330 Front Door Switch

Mazda CX9 On the 2008 Mazda CX9, the B1330 is a fairly straight forward code pointing to a problem with the passenger’s side front door switch or the wiring to that switch. Start by inspecting the connections at the Body Control Module. Look for any loose or pulled out connectors. If the connector looks good move onto the passenger’s side front door switch. Test the circuit for any short to ground. If no problems are found in the circuit, replace the passenger’s side front door switch.   Does your vehicle have…

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1998 Mazda B2500 EGR Sensor

1998 Mazda B2500 EGR Sensor

Mazda B2500 On the 1998 Mazda B2500, the P1401 is a fairly straight forward code pointing to a fault with the Pressure Feedback Exhaust Sensor (aka EGR Position Sensor). It’s actually a fairly common fail item on these vehicles. Carefully inspect the rubber lines at the base of the sensor and the metal tubes they connect to, looking for any cracks, holes or loose/missing connections (inspect carefully! very common for these to dry-rot and crack!). Inspect the electrical connector and wire harness for any loose, broken or damaged wires. If…

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1997 Mazda Protege P1195 Boost Sensor

1997 Mazda Protege P1195 Boost Sensor

Mazda Protege On the 1997 Mazda Protege, the P1195 is pointing to a fault with the EGR Boost Sensor, not the EGR Valve itself. A very common problem here is a vacuum line to the EGR Boost sensor that has a crack, hole or loose/missing connection. I’ve also seen the “nipple” at the bottom the Boost Sensor (that the vacuum line plugs into) break/crack. SO- best place to start here is by inspecting the vacuum lines to the Boost Sensor. Inspect the sensor itself as well. Inspect the electrical connector…

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